The History of Cheese!

New World

Since the Pilgrims landed, bringing their goats with them, Americans have been making artisan cheese the same way it has been made for thousands of years - thoughtfully, by hand and in small batches. Cheese provided a ready source of protein throughout the year for families struggling to survive harsh winters in the New World. Over time, as settlements grew and commerce developed, farmers making more cheese than their families could eat were able to find a market for their extra cheese. Farmers with a ready and accessible market for their cheese were able to create fresh cheeses that had to be sold shortly after being made. But a farmer living farther from a commercial center would have to make aged cheeses that could hold up better until they could be transported by horse and wagon to a market. Although farmers produced different varieties of cheeses they shared one important characteristic: the cheeses were all "farmstead cheeses" - made exclusively from the milk of the farmer's own herd.

Machine Age

Mechanization in the Industrial Revolution made it possible to make large quantities of everything, including cheese. Producing large quantities of cheese required even larger quantities of milk - more than could be provided by one farm. So milk for a cheesemaking facility would be purchased from many sources, no longer from a single herd. Although it helped farmers in one way, by providing a guaranteed market for their milk, it also kept the selling price of milk low.

Post-War Years

World War II changed the world and also changed the face of family farming. Wartime advances in technology created new job opportunities, and many farmers gave up their land in favor of more profitable careers. In the 1950's the craft of artisan cheesmaking seemed destined for obscurity. Mass production ruled the food industry while convenience foods filled the stores. Processed cheese overtook the market, and cheese - a product once prized for its diversity - was now prized for its uniformity.

Back to the Land

Along with the social and political turmoil of the 1960's and 70's came a "back to the land" movement and resurgence in the interest of traditional crafts, including cheesemaking. Some of the first artisan cheesemakers of this generation to successfully produce and market their cheeses were those whose farms had been in their families for generations. They already owned the land, the animals to produce milk and the cheesemaking equipment, allowing them to start the business with little expense.

Although people were making cheese across the country, Vermont, Northern California and Oregon in particular nurtured clusters of independent cheesemakers. Their artisan cheeses, produced in small batches, stood in stark contrast to the mass-produced varieties. At the same time, the voice of the organic movement became louder. Artisan cheesemakers responded by becoming more concerned about the purity of their milk. They paid greater attention to what the animals were eating, how they were raised and other factors that affected the milk they produced.

Support and Encouragement

In the 1980's, as new artisan cheesemakers started connecting, sharing resources and information, two pillars of the industry emerged. The New England Cheesemaking Supply Company, which had opened in Massachusetts in 1978, established itself as a comprehensive resource for hard-to-find cheesemaking supplies, information and support for making artisan cheese. In 1982, the American Cheese Society was formed to uphold the tradition of American cheese, while encouraging the highest standards in cheesemaking. With over 1,000 members, including cheesemakers, retailers, food writers and cheese enthusiasts the American Cheese Society has helped raise awareness of this unique niche in the food market.

American Spirit

Americans value the family farm as a symbol of the traditional American spirit. Yet farming is still a difficult business and profits can be scarce. As family farms fight for survival, agricultural agencies encourage farmers to produce "value added products" such as jams, preserves, flowers and cheese, to help diversify their income. Out of this necessity, extraordinary products have been created and new life breathed into many family farms. With the current rising interest in artisan cheese, consumers who purchase these products are providing many farmers with the ability to keep their farms operational.

When you taste an artisan cheese, remember that every artisan cheese has a story. It's the story of a farmer whose forefathers cleared the land centuries ago and the gentle animals that produced the milk. And it's the story of the cheesemaker practicing a 5,000 year-old craft - carefully transforming a small vat of farm fresh milk into a cheese that is both food and a work of art.